We’re momentarily pressing pause on our Taiwan food adventures to share a little detour: a solo dinner I just had over the weekend in Kuala Lumpur. I was in town for a quick conference and, with only one night free, I decided to treat myself to something special—a seat at Dewakan, Malaysia’s acclaimed modern Malaysian restaurant - 2 Michelin Star
I booked the second seating which was at 9.15pm because I was only going to land in the late evening. I had half the mind to not go ahead with the booking because
1) I would probably be very hungry by 9.15pm
2) They said its a 150 minutes experience which means I would have to get back to the hotel alone close to 12 midnight !!!!
Anyhow, I could not bring myself to pass on a 2 michelin star, so there we go.
Dining alone, I wasn’t sure what to expect—but the team at Dewakan welcomed me warmly and led me to the table with the best view in the house. From that vantage point, the city glowed softly in the distance while the quiet theatre of the kitchen unfolded before me.
Upon arrival, I was given a short tour of their kitchen followed by a short introduction about their produce which are all local Malaysian spices. Some of which I identified with as I grew up in a very asian household and my grandmother was from Malaysia and hence her cooking was very greatly influenced by the Malaysian spices.
This is the menu I had that night. If you know me, you would know that I'm not a huge alcohol drinker and I very much prefer my non alcoholic drinks. Hence, upon knowing that they offer non alcoholic drink pairing, I immediately opted for that. I was very impressed by their flight of konbuchas, they were very well paired with each of the dishes.
This crayfish tasted as tho it was coated in salted egg ( but it wasn't ) I loved this dish so much, it was my favourite appetiser !
This tempeh dumpling with clams is my favourite dish of the night. I could eat 10 of these !!
The way to eat is is to mix the venison into the rice and chomp it up. I appreciated the smokey flavour of the rice which I guess came about because it was wrapped and steamed in lotus leave.
This was their beef dish which is a plate of retired dairy cow. I really enjoyed the tongue because it was so soft it tasted like brisket cooked in a pressure cooker. However I thought the beef meat itself was really touch. And the tempura looking thing in the centre was cow brain, which I contemplated long and hard if I should eat or not but I ended up eating anyway because I didn't want to be disrespectful. It tasted like shirako but this will be the first and last time I'm ever eating a cow's brain.
Loved this bone broth!
Of the desserts, I think this cacaoless chocolate tart is my favourite !
I really enjoyed this egg kueh as well. It tasted so much like the bread my grandmother used to make. And the last non alcoholic pairing was a tea, that tasted like the buckwheat tea i regularly drink before going to bed.
Overall, this meal was a thoughtful progression of courses rooted in Malaysian flavours—but approached with innovation and reverence. Each bite brought back tastes I grew up with but reinterpreted in unfamiliar ways. It was food that made me pause: unfamiliarly familiar, if you will. Nostalgia dressed in modern technique.
Even as a solo diner, the service was seamless and considerate. The team explained each dish with enthusiasm, and I felt cared for without being hovered over. As the meal drew to a close, I was left with not just a satisfied palate, but also a deeper appreciation for how heritage cuisine can be reshaped and respected at the same time.
So if you're ever in KL and have just one evening to spare, I’d say let Dewakan surprise you. They don't just serve food—they tell a story. And even when you’re a table for one, that story can feel entirely your own.
